Ramen is a Japanesee noodle dish, which traces its origins back to China. Ramen is made of noodles, broth and flavoring sauce. The noodles are made from wheat flour, salt, water, and baking infused water. [1]

Chinese merchants brought over their Chinese food and cuisine to Japan during the nineteenth century by working as cooks at restaurants in the city of Yokohama. It was not until the turn of the century (20^th century) that Chinese food establishments increased in Japan. [2]  Rairaiken, which was established in Tokyo in 1910, was the first documented restaurant to serve Shina soba (Chinese Noodles), and was mostly likely the genesis of Japanese Ramen. 

Ozai Kanichi, a former official at the Yokohama Customs Office, owned Rairaiken, and employed Chinese cooks from Yokohama Chinatown. Shina soba was the most recognized dish of Rairaiken because many Japanese were already familiar with the soba noodles that were sold on the streets.

Shina soba later become known as Japan’s national and iconic dish, but under a different name we now know as ramen. The name change from shina soba to ramen occurred during the 1950s to 1960s. The word Shina carried a negative connotation and was used to refer pejoratively to China during the course of the Sino-Japanese War (1 August 1894 – 17 April 1895). Considering the word’s historical association and derogatory nature, Shina soba was changed to Chuka Soba. Chuka refers to Chinese. Eventually the name ramen was adopted. Today, Chuka soba and ramen are used interchangeably. 

The popularity of ramen increased in the 1920s and 1930s when Japan’s urban working class expanded. However, shortages of wheat caused by World War II made it difficult for people to enjoy ramen. After the war, wheat imports from the United States reignited the demand for ramen. Ramen took off after the instant version of the dish was sold in 1958. In the 1980s, the popular media publicized ramen as a favorite among the younger generation. And in the beginning of 1990s, the frenzy of ramen gave rise to ramen celebrities, ramen museums, and ramen video games.

The transformation of the Chinese noodles into Japanese Ramen was a gradual change. The “Japanization” of these noodles intensified as more restaurants serving Shina soba increased, and these restaurants adjusted the recipes to take on more Japanese flavors and taste.

Hope you enjoyed reading this brief history of ramen. Click on the post to leave a comment and let me know what is your favorite type of ramen and why?

[1] 2014 Solt, George. The Untold History of Ramen: How Political Crisis in Japan Spawned a Global Food Craze. University of California Press, Berkeley.

[2] 2006 Cwiertka, K.J. Modern Japanese Cuisine: Food, Power and National Identity. Reaktion Books Ltd, London.